Feast in the Heart of Texas

"There is a moment during the preparation of any proper feast when the person in charge of the cooking starts to sweat, worried that everything is not going to be all right. For Quealy Watson, that moment came in the afternoon, a few hours before his guests were due to arrive. He was standing in the yard of a stately brick Victorian home in the King William neighborhood of San Antonio, at the edge of the San Antonio River, looking down at a heavy offset smoker in which he was roasting two ducks under a spray of spices and salt." - Sam Sifton / NYT Magazine

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